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Wayne
Murphy was a police academy cadet in 1963 when he and his wife,
Gwen, experienced their first hankerings for some Beef Burger Barrel
grub.
The Murphy's often
made a quick jog across the railroad tracks to grab some burgers,
fries and a cold drink.
News that the
longtime Amarillo drive-up eatery will close Feb. 3 took Murphy and
other loyal customers by surprise.
"The back
door of our duplex, you could look out the back door and see the
Burger Barrel. We'd get paid on Fridays, and it was our treat. We'd
troop across the tracks and get a burger and fries or a malt,"
Murphy said. "I don't know if you would call it an icon or not,
but it's just a fixture to that neighborhood. I really hate to see
it go. I still, even today, stop in there once in a while to get a
burger and fries."
Stanton Bray has
managed the Barrel for 27 years. He's saddened to see the drive-up
institution close. A sign on the Barrel's window said higher energy
costs, rising grocery prices and growing fast-food competition
prompted the closure.
Bray said much of
the barrel-shaped restaurant's equipment is old and needs to be
replaced. The original owner, F.E. Waller, died about a year ago.
His daughter owns another restaurant, Bill's Go Burger, at 4500 S.
Washington St., he said.
"Our gas bill
is very, very high and the electric bill has also gone up
considerably. It makes it difficult for us to operate," he
said. "Rising food prices. Already we've seen rising costs for
our produce like our lettuce."
Bray has worked
two stints at the restaurant, once in 1974, and another after he
returned from Europe to manage it. In those days, the Barrel ran a
special after 6 p.m.: five burgers with lettuce, pickles and onions
for a buck and a quarter.
Burgers are the
Barrel's mainstay, but plenty of customers opt for its chicken-fried
steak sandwich or the chicken strips. Burger meat is ground
especially to Barrel specifications: No water, no soy.
"I've worked
for the (Waller) family for 27 years," Bray said, noting that
at least five fast-food competitors are positioned nearby.
"It's personally going to be a little unsettling, I think. Of
course, it will be the first time in my life that I've ever been
without a job."
Bray said many of
his customers are longtime friends. A couple of little old ladies
dropped by Wednesday and told Bray their great-grandchildren are now
Barrel customers.
"They are
very upset. We have third- and fourth generation customers
here," he said. "There have been several people that have
shown an interest in buying it because they think that it's really
too bad that one of Amarillo's oldest businesses is going out of
business."
The original
restaurant was on Amarillo Boulevard and Hayes Street when F.E.
Waller bought it in 1947, Bray said. The Barrel opened up at its
present location in October 1952.
Bill Fischer,
Waller's son-in-law, said the Barrel is owned by the Waller estate
and that he is exploring ways to keep it open. But recent heavy
snows and spiraling costs have forced his hand for now.
"I'm still
trying to raise additional funding to keep it open. Right now, I'm
in limbo, but I'm being forced by economic conditions with this
weather the last two months being so inclement. It's just killed me
cash-flow wise," he said.
The burger joint's
iconic, white barrel-shaped building and trademark cow sign have
their own place in the annals of Amarillo history. In 1937, it
operated as an A&W Root Beer outlet at 10th and Polk. The barrel
itself bounced around for a few years until it was moved to Plains
Boulevard. It even captured international attention in 1998 when
Kikkoman Teriyaki launched a national advertising campaign featuring
the Amarillo landmark. The ad ran in magazines ranging from Better
Homes & Gardens to People.
Architectural
historians have given the Barrel the nod.
"An excellent
example of an early type of roadside architecture, which relied on
humorous or fantastic shapes and images to attract attention,"
the Amarillo Historic Building Survey said.

Some
things are worth fighting for.
Truth.
Freedom.
Beef
Burger Barrel.
Our
community simply cannot let this establishment close its doors,
which are scheduled to close forever Feb. 3, 2007. The iconic
restaurant, a shrine to roadside kitsch, an Amarillo landmark –
and home to the sort of grub people write songs about – must
remain open. The burgers must be cooked.
The
fries must be fried.
And
the limeades? For heaven sake’s, go get one right now.
The
restaurant’s owner says he wants to keep it open, though he’s
been hit by higher energy and grocery costs and recent cold weather
has dramatically reduced business.
If
Bill Fischer, the son in law of founder F.E. Waller, is willing to
try, then I think Amarillo residents ought to try to come up with a
plan to save the historic establishment.
If
everyone who has ever indulged in a cheeseburger or a chicken-fried
steak sandwich heads over and orders another one, the cash-flow
problem ought to take care of itself. And if you’ve never eaten
there, give it a try.
Here
are three alternative suggestions to save the Beef Burger Barrel:
Move
it downtown.
Beth Duke, the executive director of Center City, said she would
love to see the restaurant return to downtown – it used to be
located at 10th and Polk – as she and other Center City advocates
continue in their efforts to revitalize the area.
Putting
it near the Polk Street nightclub circuit ought to drive the
restaurant’s sales up. (Nothing better than a chili dog after last
call. Except maybe a large order of tater tots.)
The
Paramount sign restoration and other downtown projects like the
Barfield have given a nod to preserving what was once called the
best-lit Main Street in America. Historical photos of the Barrel
show a classic retro sign that could be restored. The burger painted
on the barrel could also use a little touching up.
Move
it to Route 66.
History buffs and architectural historians recognize the Barrel as
an outstanding example of roadside architecture from an era the
Interstate Age unfortunately left in the rearview mirror. Check out
the setting in the movie “Cars” – how can we let something as
nifty as the Barrel be sent to the junk yard?
Move
it to the Cadillac Ranch.
Hundreds of cars stop there every day, and there’s no refreshment
available. Moving the barrel to Stanley Marsh’s landmark would
create a photographic utopia for tourists and one not too far away
for locals.
The
Beef Burger Barrel is unique. The food’s good. It’s a landmark
in the happy memories of tens of thousands of satisfied burger
aficionados. We make our own luck here in West Texas. Let’s make
some good luck and keep the Barrel rolling.
The Beef Burger Barrel served its last hamburger Saturday, February
4, 2007 and the occasion brought in a family all the way from
Dallas.
Customers were
there from all walks of life for a last taste of the restaurant.
Longtime customers as well as new customers were there for the final
day.
Doris Jenkins of
Amarillo said her son flew in from Dallas on Saturday specifically
to eat one last burger. It's tough for her to imagine getting a
burger anyplace else. And, after 35 years of patronizing the Barrel,
she had to be there one last time.
"This place
has so many memories," Jenkins said. "This is killing me.
My kids came in from Dallas today. My son, he said, 'I think I'll
fly in just to eat supper.' "
Whether it was
lunch or dinner, Jenkins said this was her favorite place for a
hamburger.
"To me,
there's not any hamburger in Amarillo that tastes better," she
said. "You could get it and leave or just sit here and eat
it."
Jenkins said she
did not want to see the end of an era.
James and Cynthia
Hunt of Amarillo were there for the first time.
"We simply
didn't want to miss out on history," James Hunt said. "I'm
hoping that someone will reopen it."
It makes an
impression to see longtime customers here and getting gratitude from
the owners, he said.
"It's that
kind of spirit you see here that makes us want to live in
Amarillo," James Hunt said.
The place is a
part of people's lives, Cynthia Hunt said.
Joshua Morris of
Amarillo said he can remember being brought by his grandparents to
the eatery.
What made an
impression on him most was seeing the barrel.
"It wasn't
something you saw everywhere," Morris said. "It was good
food, too. It was a treat to come up here.
"It wasn't
fancy, but it was good."
Owner Bill Fischer
said he has seen a lot more business this past week since the
announced closing. He also said there may still be a future for the
restaurant.
"In six days,
we've done four months' of business," Fischer said. "At
this point, I'm going to be looking for a way to make the necessary
repairs."
His reasons for
closing are posted on the window where customers order. They are
higher energy costs, higher grocery costs, an increase in
competition and inclement weather.
The original
restaurant was at Amarillo Boulevard and Hayes Street when F.E.
Waller bought it in 1947. The Barrel opened at its present location
at 3102 Plains Blvd. in October 1952.
"No. 7.''
I broke away from
a conversation and stepped up to the sliding window.
"No. 7?''
That would be me.
At about that time, David White came bouncing out from the back of
the Barrel to inquire how that sounded through the microphone.
Sounded pretty
good to me, I told him, but then I was only 4 feet away when my
order was announced. And how is everything, he asked?
"Good, but I
didn't get my cherry lime.''
Pffooooom. White
scurried back into barrel. Pffooooom. Fifteen seconds later, he came
back out with a small cherry lime.
"Thank you
for your business,'' he tells a hungry group already assembling
around the Amarillo landmark. "And thank you for your patience
today.''
Patience is
something the steady stream of hamburger customers have had ever
since the Beef Burger Barrel closed on Feb. 3 after 52 years of
flipping burgers, frying potatoes and okra, cooking up hot dogs and
serving cold drinks.
The distinctive
little barrel-shaped tribute to cholesterol at 3102 Plains Blvd. sat
empty, but there were many who hoped it wouldn't be that long.
As it turned out,
it was 128 days. Right under the familiar Hereford cow was a yellow
banner with red letters - Grand Opening - announcing Monday the
burgers were back. So too did seven balloons and the plastic flags.
But patience can only last so long. Some reasoned there was no sense
waiting to the noon hour to get started.
The Barrel was
officially reopening at 10:30 a.m. Charlotte Brown, with her niece
Taelor Hodge, 10, and nephew Drew Hodge, 7, got there at 10:20 a.m.
For posterity,
order No. 1 was some chili dogs, fries and okra.
Let the frying
begin.
"I've been
coming here for 15 years,'' said Brown, who lives off Amarillo Blvd.
"The burgers were good. The people were friendly. I hated to
see them close down.''
And so what does
it feel like to be a footnote in Amarillo's hallowed halls of
hamburger history, the answer to a trivia question whenever fans of
fries and champions of the chili burger meet? Brown paused, looking
for the right words to put the moment into perspective.
"I feel
privileged,'' she said. "I really do. I feel privileged.''
Meranda Cagle, 23,
and Cory Jackson, 28, were driving past the Barrel at a little past
10 when they saw the grand opening sign. It wasn't open yet, so they
went to a dollar store. When they were finished, they were hungry
and headed back.
"It's like
home,'' said Jackson, who was waiting on his burrito deluxe.
"I ate here a
lot when I was pregnant. My baby's 8 months old, and I probably ate
here every other day,'' said Cagle, who ordered a cheeseburger,
fries and fried okra and a Coke with extra ice. "The food's
good. The drinks are good. But I like the ice. That's why I come
here. Here, look.''
She pried open the
plastic lid. Yep, that's ice all right.
A few minutes
before 11 a.m., nine cars had pulled into the Barrel. Oops, make it
10. No, now it's 11. As anyone with any working knowledge of the
place knows, there's no seating. Customers eat in their vehicle, or
take the food home or to work.
I brought my
cheeseburger, fries and cherry lime back to the desk. One indication
of good Mexican food is a runny nose.
An indication of a
good burger is just a slight amount of grease on the paper around
it. This one had it, but not for long. Onion, tomato, pickle,
mustard, lettuce, cheese, bun and meat were soon gone. The fries
followed. The cherry lime died a slower death, lasting until
mid-afternoon.
By mid-afternoon,
co-owner Cherry White could catch her breath. She knew the first day
back would be busy, and she wasn't disappointed. The rush hour began
at 10:30 a.m. and lasted until 3 p.m.
There were six in
the Barrel working, counting her and husband, David. Typically,
there will be three or four.
"It's very
hectic and extremely exciting,'' she said. "For three weeks,
people have seen us working and have stopped to ask when we were
opening. Everyone in Amarillo knows what you're talking about when
you say the Barrel on Plains. There's been a lot of pressure to get
it up and going.''
In a fast-food
world of corporate quickies and chain sameness, when a burger in
Amarillo can be the same as one in Decatur, Ill., and Hattiesburg,
Miss., it's refreshing to have home-grown hamburger havens like Buns
over Texas, Arnold's, Dale's, Jeff's, D.J.'s and Hud's.
In its own little
way, it only adds to a city's character.
And now there's
the return of the Beef Burger Barrel. Welcome (burp) back. |