| The
25,610-square-mile Panhandle of Texas was shaped by the Compromise
of 1850, which resolved the state's controverted territorial claims.
It is bounded on the east by the 100th meridian, on the north by
parallel 36°30', and on the west by the 103rd meridian. It
comprises the northernmost twenty-six counties of the state; the
line forming the southern boundary of Swisher County in the central
Panhandle marks the southern boundary. The elevation declines from
about 4,700 feet in the northwest (Dallam County) to about 2,000
feet in the southeast (Childress County). The growing season
increases from 178 days a year to 217 days over the same distance.
The average annual precipitation ranges from about 21.5 inches in
the eastern counties to about seventeen inches in the western
counties. Thus the dry Panhandle climate ranges narrowly from sub humid
to semiarid. The High Plains cover all but the gently undulating
southeastern third of the Panhandle, where the Rolling Plains begin.
The two are separated by the scenic eastern High Plains escarpment
commonly called the Caprock. The upper tributaries of the Red River
and the Canadian River drain the region. The Canadian cuts across
the High Plains to isolate the southern part, the Llano Estacado,
which has little drainage and a reputation as one of the world's
flattest areas of such size. Beneath the High Plains lies the
enormous store of relict water held by the Ogallala
Aquifer-unquestionably the region's most valuable resource. High
Plains soils are loamy, clayey, deep, and calcareous; those of the
Rolling Plains are loamy and sandy; and those of the canyon lands
and river valleys are loamy, clayey, shallow, and calcareous and
support woody species including juniper, cottonwood, hackberry,
mesquite, elm, willow, and plum. Scrub oak, grape, and stretchberry
grow on the escarpments. Grasses found on the uplands include mainly
the bluestems, gramas, buffalo grass, and, around playas, western
wheat grass. Especially on the Llano Estacado short grasses have
protected the surface from erosion and, along with sub humidity and
fire, have inhibited tree growth. In sum, Panhandle physiography
produced a primordial grassland that supported the southern buffalo
herd and a buffalo-hunting Indian culture, invited a grazing economy
introduced by Americans, and eventually gave rise to a farming
economy that displaced much of the grassland.
Human
presence in the Panhandle dates from the time of Paleo-Indian
hunters of Pleistocene animals, whose presence is verified by their
exquisitely knapped Folsom and Clovis projectile points found in
situ with datable materials. Thereafter, occupation ebbed and flowed
with environmental variations until the eve of historic times, when
an elaborate archeological complex, the Panhandle Aspect, occupied
the Canadian River and nearby streams. Panhandle Aspect culture
appears to have crested from roughly A.D. 1350 to 1450, but was
nowhere to be found when Indians of the Panhandle were first
observed by persons who left documentary evidence. The entrada of
Francisco Vázquez de Coronado crossed the Llano Estacado in 1541 in
a futile quest for wealth, and found a culture of pedestrian,
buffalo-hunting nomads whom the Spaniards called "Querechos,"
identified by modern scholars as Athabaskan ancestors of the
Apaches. Apacheans evidently controlled the Panhandle and
surrounding territory uncontested until after 1700, when Comanches,
now mounted, appeared, challenged the Apaches, and eventually
dispossessed them. By 1800, along with their Kiowa and Kiowa Apache
allies, Comanches dominated the Great Plains south of the Arkansas
River and held Comanchería against all comers for a century and a
half. Besides providing the first documented observations of the
Llano Estacado, the Coronado expedition established the orientation
of the whole region toward the Hispanic Southwest, an orientation
reinforced by the expedition of Juan de Oñate, who traveled along
the Canadian River in 1601. In subsequent years, Spaniards and
Pueblo Indians entered the region for a variety of purposes and
regarded it as a part of New Mexico. Commercial ties between the
Plains and the river valleys of New Mexico were probably the
strongest bonds between the two. In time, trade shifted from New
Mexico to prearranged sites in West Texas such as Palo Duro and Tule
canyons, Tecovas Springs, and Quitaque Creek, while Comancheros
emerged as the principal agents of commerce. Though innocent enough
in its early days, the Comanchero trade acquired sinister
characteristics in the nineteenth century, as it dealt increasingly
in stolen livestock and human traffic.
In any
event, the southwestern orientation of the Panhandle stood for 180
years after Coronado, until the pivotal year 1821 brought forces
reorienting the region toward the United States and introducing a
succession of more-or-less separate but overlapping phases through
which regional history evolved. In 1821 the successful Mexican War
of Independence opened Santa Fe to legal trade with United States
citizens and Maj. Stephen H. Long explored the Canadian River
valley, thus initiating the Anglo-American exploratory phase of
Panhandle history. Between 1821 and the 1853 the Pacific railroad
survey of the thirty-fifth parallel, led by Lt. Amiel Weeks Whipple,
and expeditions led by United States Army officers explored and
described the Canadian valley, the Rolling Plains, and the upper
tributaries of the Red River. Only the interior of the Llano
Estacado lay beyond the ken of the Americans. Meanwhile, in 1840
Josiah Gregg found the south side of the Canadian an advantageous
trade route, and in 1849 Capt. Randolph B. Marcy, closely following
Gregg's tracks, specifically marked the Fort Smith-Santa Fe Trail so
that ties of commerce and travel, along with exploration, pulled the
Panhandle toward the American orbit.
Until after
1865 the southern Plains Indians remained essentially undisturbed,
mainly because of the sectional controversy and the Civil War, but
in the early 1870s professional buffalo-hide hunters entered the
Panhandle from western Kansas. Normal Indian resentment toward this
incursion was heightened by their understanding that the Medicine
Lodge Treaties of 1867 guaranteed them exclusive hunting grounds
south of the Arkansas River. In retaliation, resentful warriors led
by Quanah Parker and the charismatic medicine man Isa-tai plotted an
attack upon the buffalo hunters' trading post at Adobe Walls in what
is now Hutchinson County. The attack failed to overrun the post and
cost heavy losses, although it sent both hide men and merchants
scurrying for the safety of Dodge City and temporarily interrupted
the buffalo-hunting phase of Panhandle history. Most importantly,
Second Adobe Walls goaded the government into the climactic campaign
against the southern Plains Indians, the Red River War of 1874-75.
Earlier efforts to deal militarily with the southern Plains tribes
won some battles, but resolved very little. On November 26, 1864, a
500-man force under Kit (Christopher) Carson had engaged several
villages in the vicinity of the Bent brothers' old adobe trading
post on the Canadian on November 25. Doubtlessly the Indians were
hurt considerably, but Carson achieved little of strategic
consequence. Rather more successful was the Winter War of 1868, in
which a strategy contrived by Maj. Gen. Philip H. Sheridan directed
four converging columns upon the Indians' haunts to catch them
unsuspecting in their winter camps. No column came from the south,
however, and many camps simply dropped southward out of the
encirclement. The 1874 campaign added a column of the Fourth United
States Cavalry led northward by Col. Ranald S. Mackenzie to complete
the encirclement. The Red River War saw some dramatic pitched
battles, most famously Mackenzie's victory in the battle of Palo
Duro Canyon on September 28, but mainly it was a campaign of
harassment that gave the Indians no rest until, near starvation,
they accepted their inevitable move to reservations.
By early
1875 the military phase of Panhandle history was over. The hide men
quickly felled most of the remaining buffalo with relatively minor
interference from Indians, and the region lay essentially empty
awaiting its next phase. Fort Elliott, placed in Wheeler County as a
hedge against Indian outbreaks, supported white settlement with
numerous essential services. In 1876 the Texas legislature marked
off the twenty-six Panhandle counties from the Bexar Land District,
thereby essentially completing the transformation of the region from
a southwestern Hispanic cultural domain to an Anglo-American one.
The empty grassland was attractive to the pastores, led by
Casimero Romero, who initiated the grazing phase of Panhandle
history by bringing their sheep to the western Canadian basin, where
Charles Goodnight found them when he moved his cattle from Colorado
in the spring of 1876. Leaving the Canadian to the New Mexican
sheepherders, Goodnight moved on to Palo Duro Canyon where, in
partnership with James Adair, he built the JA Ranch. Almost
simultaneously, Thomas Sherman Bugbee arrived in Hutchinson County
and established the Quarter Circle T Ranch. Other pioneers soon
followed, and the towns of Tascosa, Mobeetie, and Clarendon
developed as the centers from which settlement, commerce, and
political organization emanated. Their counties, Wheeler, Oldham,
and Donley, were organized in 1879, 1881, and 1882, respectively.
The federal census of 1880 counted 1,607 persons in the Panhandle,
including 1,198 Anglos concentrated in Wheeler, Hemphill, and Donley
counties; 358 Hispanics concentrated in Hartley, Oldham, and Deaf
Smith counties; and fifty-one African Americans, thirty-six of whom
lived near Fort Elliott. Of adults over age fifteen, 365 were born
in former Confederate states, while 364 were born in Union states or
territories. The region's foreign-born represented eleven nations.
Although
sheep ranching initiated the grazing phase, its dominance quickly
gave way to cattle, which first came in herds of as few as 100 head,
owned by cattlemen who took the best grass and water. Few followed
Goodnight's lead when he purchased 12,000 acres of JA range.
Individual enterprise soon gave way to corporate enterprise because
the attraction of low-cost stocker cattle, low labor costs, the
subsidy of free grass, and high market prices infused large amounts
of capital from both the east and Europe. The first corporate giant
was the Prairie Cattle Company of Edinburgh, Scotland. Another, the
Capitol Freehold Land and Investment Company, Limited, is the best
known as the XIT Ranch. Corporate financial resources brought barbed
wire fencing, deep-drilled wells, and windmills, thus enabling more
effective use of pasturage away from surface water and the upgrading
of herds through selective breeding. Conversely, barbed wire
enclosed much state-owned land and the state's insistence on grazing
fees bred bitter controversy, which was eventually resolved
peacefully. Early corporate ranching contained the seeds of
disaster, however, because its very success attracted excessive
investment, overstocking, bad management, and depressed prices,
thereby making the industry vulnerable to any dislocation. The first
rather feeble attempts at farming, which came in the early eighties,
were equally vulnerable. Both were devastated by unusually severe
winters and summer droughts in the mid-eighties. Farming had to wait
another generation for a new start. Though many ranches failed,
well-managed ones survived, and a far better-organized industry
emerged. It became the foundation for a ranching industry that
remains integral to the economy and culture of the Panhandle.
Every phase
of regional development profited by completion of the Fort Worth and
Denver Railway in 1888. In time, the Rock Island and Santa Fe joined
the FW&D in providing a region-wide rail network. Because the
escarpments of the Staked Plains partly dictated routes, the rails
crossed in the central Panhandle at the point where Amarillo was
fortuitously located and made the town the center of regional
cultural, social, and commercial life. Railroads determined the
location of town sites, ranchers got far easier access to supplies
and markets, and promoters of various sorts, especially railroad
men, ardently boosted the Panhandle as the new garden for farmers.
Not until well into the twentieth century, however, did improved
dry-land farming techniques and the first stirrings of modern
irrigation, both backed by emerging technology, assure permanence of
an agricultural foundation for the region. By 1917 beef, wheat, and
cotton emerged as the basics of commercial production. Unusually
favorable weather, markets impelled by World War I, and
technological improvements blessed the efforts of producers who
expanded acreage and increased production. The artificial demand and
prices raised by the war, however, encouraged excessive production
and cultivation of marginal lands better left to grazing, a fact
that portended disaster in the 1930s. Fortunately for the Panhandle,
a new and unanticipated industry burst upon the economic scene and
permeated the whole fabric of regional life.
Drawing
upon the research of geologist Charles N. Gould, a group of
entrepreneurs led by grocer Millard C. Nobles organized the Amarillo
Oil Company, leased 70,000 acres of ranchland, and began drilling.
Their first wells produced only natural gas, but on May 2, 1921,
Gulf-Burnet No. 2 produced the first Panhandle oil and encouraged
further exploration. In 1925 Dixon Creek Oil Company hit a vast
reserve in Hutchinson County that yielded 10,000 barrels a day. Oil
spawned numerous collateral industries and towns, of which Borger
was surely the most chaotic. The place eventually became so lawless
that only martial law brought it stability. Other communities such
as Lefors, Pampa, and Dumas profited from oil but avoided such
tumult. Amarillo became the corporate center of major oil companies.
Abundant natural gas brought plants for extraction of carbon black,
helium, and zinc smelting, while the marketing of petroleum products
required construction of refineries and pipelines. The availability
of moderately priced automobiles and cheap fuel brought a demand for
better roads, and in the 1920s the Panhandle led Texas in the
development of highways, including the legendary Route 66.
Farm-to-market transportation flourished under the Rural Roads Act,
and the combination of gasoline-powered transportation and paved
roads strengthened Amarillo's position as the tri-state (Texas,
Oklahoma, and New Mexico) trade center.
The arrival
of the complex of oil-related industries could scarcely have been
more timely, since they provided some economic diversification and
activity after the events of September 1929. In fact, during the
Great Depression they prospered and the oil counties grew in
population. Agriculture, by contrast, had to contend with the
economic dislocations of the time as well as an ecological calamity
induced by land abuse, unsuitable farming methods, severe drought,
and abnormally high winds: the Dust Bowl. Many farmers, especially
tenants, were driven from the land. Between 1935 and 1940 both the
number of farms and property values declined sharply. Six
agricultural counties lost more than 25 percent of their residents
between 1930 and 1940; ten others lost more than 10 percent. The
stark reality of human suffering found expression in poignant images
recorded by Farm Security Administration photographers, while the
environmental crisis was nowhere made more vivid than in the graphic
paintings of Alexandre Hogue. Immediate relief for depression
victims proved to exceed the resources of localities, despite
valiant efforts by such leaders as Mayor Ernest O. Thompson of
Amarillo. In the long term, two absolute necessities emerged:
stabilization of the agricultural economy and healing of the land.
In 1932 Panhandle voters turned to the New Deal of Franklin D.
Roosevelt, who carried all twenty-six counties with 87 percent of
the popular vote. Four years later, Roosevelt gleaned 96 percent of
the Panhandle vote. Through various New Deal agencies, federal aid
came in a variety of projects ranging from multiple agricultural
programs to construction of Palo Duro Canyon State Scenic Park, to
the building of curbs, streets, and gutters in towns, to documenting
and recording regional history, to producing public art. Of enormous
advantage to the region was its United States representative, Marvin
Jones, who chaired the House Agriculture Committee beginning in 1931
and heavily influenced the New Deal's agricultural legislation.
Doubtless through Jones's influence, but also through dire need, the
Panhandle was among the first areas in the nation to receive New
Deal aid and became something of a proving ground for its programs.
Of all programs affecting the Panhandle, and especially rural life,
few, if any, could match the depth and permanence of the Rural Electrification
Act, which brought electric power first to the rural Panhandle in
Deaf Smith County in 1937.
As the
"Dirty Thirties" waned and the effects of the Great
Depression subsided, Panhandle citizens' attention turned outward
toward Europe and Asia. Tangible portents of a new, unpleasant world
became evident on November 25, 1940, when units of the Texas
National Guard mobilized at Amarillo. Though guard personnel served
world-wide, the Second Battalion, formed from the 131st Field
Artillery under Col. Blutcher S. Tharp of Amarillo, was immortalized
as the Lost Battalion of Java. Two Panhandle men, John C.
"Red" Morgan and Charles H. Roan, won the Medal of Honor,
while former representative Jones served throughout the war as war
food administrator. Because of the large number of days per year
suitable for flying, the Army Air Corps placed training fields at
Dalhart, Pampa, and Amarillo. Only the Amarillo installation
remained after the war. McLean and Hereford hosted German and
Italian prisoners of war. The Pantex Army Ordnance Plant,
established in 1942 in Carson County to produce bombs and artillery
shells, assumed a conspicuous role in the Cold War as the assembly
plant for nuclear warheads (see PANTEX, TEXAS). The demands
of global war combined with ample rainfall sent Panhandle wheat and
beef production soaring; cotton culture production also
significantly increased, though less dramatically. Largely because
of the leadership of Ernest O. Thompson in his position on the
Railroad Commission, the Panhandle oil and gas fields had been
developed and were poised to fuel and lubricate the machines of war.
In March 1943 the Exell Helium Plant in Moore County began
extracting helium from natural gas to provide lifting power for the
blimps that escorted transoceanic convoys; also, completely without
the knowledge of Exell personnel, the plant provided helium for the
Manhattan Project. The number of peaceful applications of Helium
later increased, although it was Cold War demands for nuclear
weaponry that kept the Exell Plant in operation after the armistice.
The
post-World War II years sustained the prosperity stimulated by the
war, although it still rested mainly upon its traditional
foundations, agriculture and petroleum. The Korean War bolstered the
demand for both and introduced a pivotal decade in regional history,
the 1950s. In the five years following 1952, Amarillo recorded less
rainfall than in any comparable period of the 1930s, and emerging
dust clouds evoked fears of another Dust Bowl. The happy fact that
the worst did not happen may be attributed to expanding irrigation
and the soil-conservation practices and technologies learned twenty
years earlier. During the 1930s as the number of farms decreased,
the size of farms increased. The average of almost 1,000 acres by
1940 reflected advanced mechanization and especially widespread
irrigation, the number of irrigation wells having increased from a
mere forty-one in 1930 to more than 700 in 1940. Recurring drought
in the fifties encouraged irrigation all over the High Plains, but
especially north of the Canadian River, where the Ogallala Aquifer
had previously been considered too deep for feasible irrigation.
Technology changed that, however, and over the High Plains the
number of wells increased from 14,000 in 1950 to 27,500 in 1954.
Irrigated acreage expanded from 1.86 million acres to 3.5 million in
the same period. The irrigation boom peaked in the middle 1970s,
subsided, and stabilized about 1980. It assured a measure of
agricultural prosperity and stimulated a pervasive agribusiness that
remains a dominant force in the regional economy-especially in
cattle feeding. An explosion of feedlots in northwestern Texas came
about through the chance presence of Paul Engler, a Nebraska cattle
buyer, in Hereford in 1960. Engler noticed an abundance of
components: space, favorable climate, cattle, and massive irrigated
hybrid sorghum culture. Far-sighted bankers, especially Henry Sears
of Hereford, provided capital for the infant industry, which quickly
grew into a obstreperously youthful industry. The early 1970s
brought a sobering collapse and eventual reordering into a more
sound, scientifically managed enterprise.
As the hot
war in Korea intensified the Cold War, Amarillo Army Air Field
reopened as Amarillo Air Force Base in 1951 to train technicians and
to base units of the Strategic Air Command. The Atomic Energy
Commission claimed the Pantex plant in 1950 and added manufacture of
nuclear warheads to the installation's former functions. Operated by
private contractors under the Department of Energy, Pantex became
the nation's sole assembly plant for nuclear warheads in 1975. As
early as 1926, visionary individuals considered harnessing Canadian
River water for domestic and industrial use. Austin A. Meredith made
a virtual life's work of promoting an impoundment, and his efforts
and those of many others led to the formation of the Canadian River
Municipal Water Authority in 1953. Eleven Panhandle and South Plains
cities joined the authority, secured federal financing, and
constructed Sanford Dam. The resulting Lake Meredith impounds up to
821,300 acre-feet of water. Excessive salinization plagues Lake
Meredith waters, however, and requires remedial treatment. The 1950s
also featured a remarkably rapid reversal in the traditional
Democratic politics of Panhandle voters who, after overwhelmingly
supporting Franklin Roosevelt through four elections, gave President
Harry Truman a decisive victory in 1948 and helped Democratic
senator Lyndon B. Johnson defeat his Republican opponent. Four years
later Republican Dwight D. Eisenhower won twenty-four Panhandle
counties, although he took only sixteen in 1956. In 1960 it became
evident that the 1950s had witnessed a political
transition-in-progress, for Richard M. Nixon won twenty-two
Panhandle counties and carried the region with 62 percent of the
popular vote. Except for Johnson's narrow regional victory in 1964,
no Democratic presidential candidate has carried the Panhandle since
1948. The shift has reflected a general conservative trend, for
local, state, and congressional Republican candidates have become
increasingly successful.
Deactivation
of Amarillo Air Force Base in 1968 shook the entire regional
economy, but was turned to account when the base facilities were
purchased by the state of Texas and made the campus of Texas State
Technical Institute, which officially opened on June 15, 1970, and
has since supplied skilled labor to the regional workforce. The
runways built to accommodate B-52 strategic bombers opened the way
for construction of a new air terminal to accommodate an expanding
economy. Accordingly on May 17, 1971, a new air terminal opened to
serve the three-state area. Because of its exceptionally long
runway, Amarillo Air Terminal was designated a port of entry to the
United States.
At the end
of the Cold War, Pantex turned about-face and started dismantling
nuclear warheads. The plant is promoted as the center of a research
consortium for finding peaceful applications for nuclear materials.
The possibility implies great economic impact for the region, but
also raises concerns among residents who are concerned about
potential dangers of plutonium storage, as well as possible
contamination of the Ogallala Aquifer. Population trends of the
1980s and 1990s suggest that the Texas Panhandle is in a
transitional, and somewhat confusing, phase. Between 1970 and 1980
the regional population grew by nearly 60,000, or about 18 percent.
In the 1980s, although the overall population loss was slightly less
than 6 percent, only two counties had statistically significant
population gains: Moore County (including Dumas) and Randall County,
which grew by nearly 20 percent because of Amarillo's southwestward
expansion beyond the Potter county line, and the emergence of Canyon
as a virtual suburb of Amarillo. Of the remaining counties, four
lost more than 20 percent of their population, and thirteen lost
from 9 to 19 percent. All of these are agricultural counties or oil
and gas producers or both. The decline of formerly reliable
industries has compelled a search for alternatives, among which tourism
and prisons are promising. The Ogallala Aquifer remains the
Panhandle's most precious resource, however, and although the threat
of its depletion appears to have subsided, its finitude necessitates
earnest consideration and planning if the economic well-being of the
region is to endure. |